The Ascent

2am. We lean into the wind and struggle on brutal windboard over to the base of the face. Not much is being said. Together, alone in our own small spheres of head torch light, we box on higher in the dark.

Return of the Ice. We arrive at a huge streak of white ice, cascading down from the summit ridge, and realize we should have turned left earlier. A short but exposed traverse seems the best solution so I edge out onto it to give it a test. It’s better than Bolivian ice at least, super firm and only rotten at the edges so I lead on, painfully aware of the serac cliffs 800m below me and the ropes useful position coiled inside my pack.

Placing my tools methodically I work my way across the ice, back toward the soft snow on our original line. The helicopter arrives, oddly on time, to film the most exciting part of the climb. It circles like a hawk, the nose-mounted camera tracking my progress with intent, but I barely even notice it.

This finally feels like climbing, like how I imagined it from all my parent’s stories around the dining table. Staring back at Fraser, perched on the edge of this icy world, great gaping space all around me, the only attachment to earth a constant thunk of metal on ice. I love a good early morning detour.

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Slide: 18/24
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