When we arrive at Kuznice, at the very feet of Tatra mountains, it is already dark. We quickly set up our touring equipment and head into thick spruce forest, leaving Kuznice behind. During the day, the area is supercrowdy, with lots of tourists, souvenir stalls, skiers, a queue waiting to catch the gondola to the top of Kasprowy Wierch, horse carriages, bus drivers and everything in between. This crazy mixture is Zakopane’s, Polish most famous mountain town, both curse and trademark. Now, on a cold winter night, there is nobody there, just a taxi driver keeping his 20-year old Volkswagen’s engine running and warming himself up.